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  1. Source: Loupe Issue 13 - Summer 2019 The first C60 Trident quickly became Christopher Ward’s bestselling watch; the second version improved case design and quality dramatically; and now, for the eagerly-awaited Trident 3, hawk-like attention has been paid to every detail. Trident has never been as gorgeous, or as beautifully made, before… Trident reborn - Highlights from the reinvention of an icon New case - A new incarnation of CW’s ‘light-catcher’ case, but in rugged, sporty Trident form New performance - All versions are water resistant to 600M, and one can dive much deeper than that… New sizes - All Tridents 3s come in a new, sleek 42mm case, but the Pro 600 and GMT 600 also come in a 38mm version, and there’s a 40mm Pro 600 too New attention to detail - Top to bottom, front to back, everything is more beautifully made and designed New hands - Including a striking triangular hour hand New faces and bezels - There’s new thinking everywhere, from lume on the cermaic bezels to polished gloss faces and highly detailed indexes New lume - Better and brighter than ever before, and there’s more of it – even on the bezel New backplate - With a newly redesigned Trident logo New straps and bracelets - New quick-release bracelet design and Cordura/rubber hybrid straps Same attitude - From the Pro 600 to the incredible new Elite 1000, Trident is just as tough, rugged and do-anything as before If there’s one model that defines the Christopher Ward proposition, it’s the C60 Trident, a classic diver’s watch with rugged good looks that seems at home anywhere, on holiday or at work, with jeans or a suit. Just lately, however, Christopher Ward has been changing, with range after range reinvented using the company’s new, sleeker, more sophisticated ‘light-catcher’ cases. It’s left Trident as, in many ways, the last bastion of the old Christopher Ward. Until now, that is. What you see here is the most important new model the company has ever created, the long-awaited C60 Trident Mk 3. It boasts a new case, new bracelets and straps, and refined design details beyond any Trident before it. And, as a statement of intent, it will only launch in automatic mechanical form – yes, there may be a quartz model in the future, but don’t hold your breath. “Creating a new Trident impacts on every area of the company and every supplier we use,” says CW co-founder Mike France, “so it’s been thrilling to see the collaboration that’s gone into Trident 3, and we’ve been able to make improvements across the board.” To celebrate this co-operation, we’ve spoken to the creative brains at Christopher Ward for an oral history of Trident 3… Creating the first Tridents Mike France (co-founder): Our first diver’s watch wasn’t a Trident at all, but the Kingfisher. It still has its fans, but – in retrospect – lacked the design cues that are most potent in this market. Did it sell well? It did okay. Eventually, though, we began to notice the ubiquitousness of diver’s watches influenced by the Rolex Submariner. Well, okay, we thought – if everyone else is doing it, why swim against the tide? We needed a Submariner-influenced watch of our own. Chris Ward (co-founder): It was the right thing to do, but we took some stick when we launched Trident 1. The real problem, I think, was that we acknowledged the Submariner influence – not realising that most companies keep deathly quiet about it! [laughs] But, being straightforward about these things, we came clean – and got hammered for it! Peter Ellis (co-founder): Not that we minded too much, as the first Trident immediately became our bestselling watch. Partly that was because of the way it looked, but it was also because it demonstrated a step up in quality, too. We had our new – at the time! – partnership with Synergies Horlogères to thank for that. For the first time we had a supply partner capable of creating a great dive watch. Chris: We launched with quartz, Pro Automatic and GMT versions, and soon added a chronometer. The original Trident quickly became synonymous with CW. Creating the Trident Mk 2 Peter: Soon after the launch of the first Trident, we started working with our current case supplier, which meant the Mk 2 version, launched in February 2015, could offer a real increase in quality. It looked very similar to the original Trident, but had a ceramic bezel on the Pro and GMT models for the first time. And we improved the lume too – although, in hindsight, perhaps not enough! Mike: Though the hands and dials remained the same as with the Mk 1 – remember, this was in the days before [head of product design] Adrian Buchmann joined us, so the design was done by me and Fraser Palfreyman, our graphic designer – the engineering was vastly improved. The Mk 2 was really just a far, far better version of the Mk 1. Chris: And sales stepped up again – by 2016 it accounted for 50% of our business. The road to a Trident Mk 3 Peter: By 2017, as we approached Trident’s 10th anniversary, the question became, ‘How should we celebrate this?’ Well, with a Trident Mk 3, of course – but only if we could improve on what we already had. We knew we’d have to go further than ever before, upgrading the engineering again, but this time putting just as much effort into the aesthetics and detailing too. Adrian Buchmann (head of product design): Put the first and second generation Tridents side by side, and the thing you notice is the improvement in case quality. This time around, though, we wanted to really delve into the details – including things you won’t really see, but will feel. Mike: Think of the sensation when you close the door on a luxury car, the noise it makes as it thunks shut. It helps give the impression of quality. This is the way we’ve approached Trident 3. Pick it up and you’ll notice the additional tooling to the hands and face, and the polished dial offering more contrast against the hands. Helen McCall (head of marketing): Trident carries plenty of weight, and will inevitably be the focus of a lot of scrutiny, so we had to get it right. This is not some brand new design we’ve conjured out of nowhere, and it clearly references previous Tridents – but, at the same time, it moves the design on considerably. In fact, it might be more radical than people were expecting. There were moments where we found ourselves asking each other, ‘Shall we go for it, or hold back?’, and most of the time we’d just egg each other on. Jorg Bader Jr. (senior product manager): Very early in the process I did market research, looking closely at what our competitors are doing – where they’re strong and where they’re less so. Watches are definitely a bit smaller these days, and a lot sleeker, so we knew we needed to deliver a slimmer look than before – while remembering that a diver’s watch is first and foremost a sports watch, so needs to have some masculine weight to it too. Helen: One of the main things we wanted was a Trident that was distinctively Christopher Ward. We’ve now moved beyond a place where it should be possible to criticise Trident as looking like a homage to something else – not matter how unfair that always was! The Mk 3 had to be be the loudest, proudest iteration of the new Christopher Ward look we’ve ever done. Designing the new case Jorg Jr.: In recent years we’ve made huge strides with our case designs, and a consistent aesthetic has developed. We’ve started calling them our ‘light-catcher’ cases, because of the way light bounces off them, and Trident 3 is the latest of our key lines to adopt this look. The challenge was to apply it in a more muscular form than before, taking inspiration from the way great car design makes even a bulky vehicle look as close to the ground as possible. With Trident 3 it was like applying this principle to an SUV – which is perfectly possible, as the Range Rover Velar shows. Adrian: The swage lines around the sides are crucial, and with Trident 3 we initially got it almost right – but not quite. We started to think that the ‘waist’ was maybe a millimetre too high – so we redid the entire design to bring that down by just a fraction, giving the perfect balance between polished and unpolished elements. The new hands and face Mike: One thing we started playing around with early on is how the name Trident evokes the idea of ‘three’ – so there are three points on a trident; this is the third iteration of the watch; dive watches tend to have little triangles at 12 o’clock on both the bezel and face… Threes and triangles seemed to be everywhere, so how could we make the most of them? Chris: As Adrian sketched endless hand combinations, we kept coming back to the idea that the hour hand should be a big triangle, balanced by a strong but simple minute hand. Everyone in the company voted on it, and we all agreed that this was the way to go. Jorg Jr.: Technically, the biggest problem was getting all the details right – especially the ones we hadn’t used much before, like the shiny lacquered finish on the dial. Adrian: Actually, some of my favourite things about the new Trident are the shiny new dial, hands and indexes. The indexes are now more raised, with brushed top surfaces and little polished facets that catch the light; each one shines like a tiny individual bulb as you turn the watch in your hand. We spent ages getting the height of them right, and went through a ridiculous number of hand iterations too – often the difference between the versions was a fraction of a millimetre. I also really like the new backplate, with a fresh take on the Trident logo, and openings that make it look like a valve you’d see on an aqualung. The new lume Adrian: The most consistent complaints we heard about Trident Mk 2 concerned the lume, so we knew we had to knock that out of the park this time. Applying lume is actually quite easy – the more you use, the more your watch will shine at night – but at the same time you don’t want gigantic, blobby potato indexes with no elegance to them. Jorg Jr.: On Trident 3 we’re using better quality lume than before, and we’re using it over bigger areas too. The funny thing is, all the lume in the industry is made by just one company – so even Rolex has more or less the same lume as we do. Adrian: The really big change is that, for the first time – except for on the Trident Mk 2 Titanium Variation #2 – we’ve added lume to a Trident bezel too, making Trident 3 one of the brightest diver’s watches on the market, at any price point. Tudor, with their Pelagos, was the first to crack using lume on the bezel, and even now you only find it on a few very high-end watches. The click of the bezel Mike: One detail we really sweated over was the way the uni-directional bezel clicks around. Every dive watch sounds subtly different, and we became obsessed with making our click the very best it could be. Jorg Jr.: Mike, Adrian and I spent an entire day in London going to all the major watch shops, listening to all these clicks – and even sneakily recording the ones we really liked. We had to go to lots of shops, because if we’d tried to do it in just one they’d have sussed us – and thrown us out! Mike: By the end of that day it seemed clear that Rolex has the best bezel – not too stiff, not too soft, but solid and just right – so that became the benchmark. Jorg Jr.: The truth is, we didn’t need to go to all this trouble at all – nobody ever criticised the bezel on Trident 2 – but if we were really going to produce the best Trident we could, every aspect had to be improved. The quick-release bracelet Mike: For Trident 3, we’ve introduced our first-ever quick release stainless steel bracelet, which is a really big deal – we’re one of the first brands in the world to do so. Of course, one of the great benefits we have is access to the experience and expertise of Jorg Bader Sr., who spent a large part of his 40 years in the watch industry specialising in bracelets. He and Adrian came up with a new quick-change design which is going be a quiet revolution, I think. Adrian: Swapping between straps or bracelets is a fiddly task that no-one likes, especially as you risk scratching your watch case in. At the same time, there’s no better way to refresh your watch, or tailor it to different circumstances. In coming up with an elegant design solution to make this happen, Jorg Sr. was our secret weapon. He’s a walking, talking watch industry dictionary who seems to know everyone. Jorg Bader Sr. (head of Christopher Ward’s Swiss atelier): We already offer quick-release on our leather straps, but bracelets demand a different yet compatible system, using two spring bars rather than one. It makes swapping between a strap and a bracelet easy, though – you can do it in 20 seconds. Adrian: Quick release bracelets are only available from a handful of really highend watchmakers, and they’ve each come up with slightly different designs. Our solution is comparable, but not so expensive that it eats too much into our value for money proposition. The new hybrid strap Helen: Our latest rubber strap is also unusual, in that it’s our first hybrid, combining a high-strength waterproof textile called Cordura on the upper surface with rubber underneath. The reason? Added comfort, flexibility and a much better look. It comes in all the key colours like black and blue, and there’s a blue-and-orange version that supports our flagship Trident 3, the C60 Trident Elite 1000, a real professional’s watch in titanium. It’s limited to 300 pieces and can dive to 1,000 metres – it even has an inbuilt helium release value. Adrian: Cordura is the sort of material you find on backpacks and sports clothing, and these dual-material straps will last much longer than any single-material strap ever would. The appeal of Trident 3 Mike: Trident 3 launches in three versions – the entry level Pro, the GMT, and the top-of-the-line Elite 1000, with the Trident Pro costing only £50 more than its equivalent Trident 2. You can still pick one up for under £700, which means the value proposition is better than ever. Helen: Although it’s a very masculine design, Trident has always had a big female audience too. Yes, 42mm is pretty big, but it’s not unusual for women to wear larger watches these days, and as the Pro comes at 38mm and 40mm too, it’s the perfect size for smaller wrists. Adrian: That Trident 3 is a success is vital to Christopher Ward, and over the next few years there will be many further iterations of this design, using different materials, colours, specifications and so on. This being the case, it was vital we got the design right from the start, giving us the perfect flexible platform from which to go in all sorts of directions. Mike: We can’t afford for Trident 3 to date too quickly, so we’ve deliberately kept things restrained – and even a little conservative – so it can naturally evolve over the years. But, at the same time, we’ve been hugely fussy and exacting over the details. Right here, right now, I don’t think it would be possible to make a better Trident than this.
  2. Source: Loupe Issue 13 - Summer 2019 The first C60 Trident quickly became Christopher Ward’s bestselling watch; the second version improved case design and quality dramatically; and now, for the eagerly-awaited Trident 3, hawk-like attention has been paid to every detail. Trident has never been as gorgeous, or as beautifully made, before… Trident reborn - Highlights from the reinvention of an icon New case - A new incarnation of CW’s ‘light-catcher’ case, but in rugged, sporty Trident form New performance - All versions are water resistant to 600M, and one can dive much deeper than that… New sizes - All Tridents 3s come in a new, sleek 42mm case, but the Pro 600 and GMT 600 also come in a 38mm version, and there’s a 40mm Pro 600 too New attention to detail - Top to bottom, front to back, everything is more beautifully made and designed New hands - Including a striking triangular hour hand New faces and bezels - There’s new thinking everywhere, from lume on the cermaic bezels to polished gloss faces and highly detailed indexes New lume - Better and brighter than ever before, and there’s more of it – even on the bezel New backplate - With a newly redesigned Trident logo New straps and bracelets - New quick-release bracelet design and Cordura/rubber hybrid straps Same attitude - From the Pro 600 to the incredible new Elite 1000, Trident is just as tough, rugged and do-anything as before If there’s one model that defines the Christopher Ward proposition, it’s the C60 Trident, a classic diver’s watch with rugged good looks that seems at home anywhere, on holiday or at work, with jeans or a suit. Just lately, however, Christopher Ward has been changing, with range after range reinvented using the company’s new, sleeker, more sophisticated ‘light-catcher’ cases. It’s left Trident as, in many ways, the last bastion of the old Christopher Ward. Until now, that is. What you see here is the most important new model the company has ever created, the long-awaited C60 Trident Mk 3. It boasts a new case, new bracelets and straps, and refined design details beyond any Trident before it. And, as a statement of intent, it will only launch in automatic mechanical form – yes, there may be a quartz model in the future, but don’t hold your breath. “Creating a new Trident impacts on every area of the company and every supplier we use,” says CW co-founder Mike France, “so it’s been thrilling to see the collaboration that’s gone into Trident 3, and we’ve been able to make improvements across the board.” To celebrate this co-operation, we’ve spoken to the creative brains at Christopher Ward for an oral history of Trident 3… Creating the first Tridents Mike France (co-founder): Our first diver’s watch wasn’t a Trident at all, but the Kingfisher. It still has its fans, but – in retrospect – lacked the design cues that are most potent in this market. Did it sell well? It did okay. Eventually, though, we began to notice the ubiquitousness of diver’s watches influenced by the Rolex Submariner. Well, okay, we thought – if everyone else is doing it, why swim against the tide? We needed a Submariner-influenced watch of our own. Chris Ward (co-founder): It was the right thing to do, but we took some stick when we launched Trident 1. The real problem, I think, was that we acknowledged the Submariner influence – not realising that most companies keep deathly quiet about it! [laughs] But, being straightforward about these things, we came clean – and got hammered for it! Peter Ellis (co-founder): Not that we minded too much, as the first Trident immediately became our bestselling watch. Partly that was because of the way it looked, but it was also because it demonstrated a step up in quality, too. We had our new – at the time! – partnership with Synergies Horlogères to thank for that. For the first time we had a supply partner capable of creating a great dive watch. Chris: We launched with quartz, Pro Automatic and GMT versions, and soon added a chronometer. The original Trident quickly became synonymous with CW. Creating the Trident Mk 2 Peter: Soon after the launch of the first Trident, we started working with our current case supplier, which meant the Mk 2 version, launched in February 2015, could offer a real increase in quality. It looked very similar to the original Trident, but had a ceramic bezel on the Pro and GMT models for the first time. And we improved the lume too – although, in hindsight, perhaps not enough! Mike: Though the hands and dials remained the same as with the Mk 1 – remember, this was in the days before [head of product design] Adrian Buchmann joined us, so the design was done by me and Fraser Palfreyman, our graphic designer – the engineering was vastly improved. The Mk 2 was really just a far, far better version of the Mk 1. Chris: And sales stepped up again – by 2016 it accounted for 50% of our business. The road to a Trident Mk 3 Peter: By 2017, as we approached Trident’s 10th anniversary, the question became, ‘How should we celebrate this?’ Well, with a Trident Mk 3, of course – but only if we could improve on what we already had. We knew we’d have to go further than ever before, upgrading the engineering again, but this time putting just as much effort into the aesthetics and detailing too. Adrian Buchmann (head of product design): Put the first and second generation Tridents side by side, and the thing you notice is the improvement in case quality. This time around, though, we wanted to really delve into the details – including things you won’t really see, but will feel. Mike: Think of the sensation when you close the door on a luxury car, the noise it makes as it thunks shut. It helps give the impression of quality. This is the way we’ve approached Trident 3. Pick it up and you’ll notice the additional tooling to the hands and face, and the polished dial offering more contrast against the hands. Helen McCall (head of marketing): Trident carries plenty of weight, and will inevitably be the focus of a lot of scrutiny, so we had to get it right. This is not some brand new design we’ve conjured out of nowhere, and it clearly references previous Tridents – but, at the same time, it moves the design on considerably. In fact, it might be more radical than people were expecting. There were moments where we found ourselves asking each other, ‘Shall we go for it, or hold back?’, and most of the time we’d just egg each other on. Jorg Bader Jr. (senior product manager): Very early in the process I did market research, looking closely at what our competitors are doing – where they’re strong and where they’re less so. Watches are definitely a bit smaller these days, and a lot sleeker, so we knew we needed to deliver a slimmer look than before – while remembering that a diver’s watch is first and foremost a sports watch, so needs to have some masculine weight to it too. Helen: One of the main things we wanted was a Trident that was distinctively Christopher Ward. We’ve now moved beyond a place where it should be possible to criticise Trident as looking like a homage to something else – not matter how unfair that always was! The Mk 3 had to be be the loudest, proudest iteration of the new Christopher Ward look we’ve ever done. Designing the new case Jorg Jr.: In recent years we’ve made huge strides with our case designs, and a consistent aesthetic has developed. We’ve started calling them our ‘light-catcher’ cases, because of the way light bounces off them, and Trident 3 is the latest of our key lines to adopt this look. The challenge was to apply it in a more muscular form than before, taking inspiration from the way great car design makes even a bulky vehicle look as close to the ground as possible. With Trident 3 it was like applying this principle to an SUV – which is perfectly possible, as the Range Rover Velar shows. Adrian: The swage lines around the sides are crucial, and with Trident 3 we initially got it almost right – but not quite. We started to think that the ‘waist’ was maybe a millimetre too high – so we redid the entire design to bring that down by just a fraction, giving the perfect balance between polished and unpolished elements. The new hands and face Mike: One thing we started playing around with early on is how the name Trident evokes the idea of ‘three’ – so there are three points on a trident; this is the third iteration of the watch; dive watches tend to have little triangles at 12 o’clock on both the bezel and face… Threes and triangles seemed to be everywhere, so how could we make the most of them? Chris: As Adrian sketched endless hand combinations, we kept coming back to the idea that the hour hand should be a big triangle, balanced by a strong but simple minute hand. Everyone in the company voted on it, and we all agreed that this was the way to go. Jorg Jr.: Technically, the biggest problem was getting all the details right – especially the ones we hadn’t used much before, like the shiny lacquered finish on the dial. Adrian: Actually, some of my favourite things about the new Trident are the shiny new dial, hands and indexes. The indexes are now more raised, with brushed top surfaces and little polished facets that catch the light; each one shines like a tiny individual bulb as you turn the watch in your hand. We spent ages getting the height of them right, and went through a ridiculous number of hand iterations too – often the difference between the versions was a fraction of a millimetre. I also really like the new backplate, with a fresh take on the Trident logo, and openings that make it look like a valve you’d see on an aqualung. The new lume Adrian: The most consistent complaints we heard about Trident Mk 2 concerned the lume, so we knew we had to knock that out of the park this time. Applying lume is actually quite easy – the more you use, the more your watch will shine at night – but at the same time you don’t want gigantic, blobby potato indexes with no elegance to them. Jorg Jr.: On Trident 3 we’re using better quality lume than before, and we’re using it over bigger areas too. The funny thing is, all the lume in the industry is made by just one company – so even Rolex has more or less the same lume as we do. Adrian: The really big change is that, for the first time – except for on the Trident Mk 2 Titanium Variation #2 – we’ve added lume to a Trident bezel too, making Trident 3 one of the brightest diver’s watches on the market, at any price point. Tudor, with their Pelagos, was the first to crack using lume on the bezel, and even now you only find it on a few very high-end watches. The click of the bezel Mike: One detail we really sweated over was the way the uni-directional bezel clicks around. Every dive watch sounds subtly different, and we became obsessed with making our click the very best it could be. Jorg Jr.: Mike, Adrian and I spent an entire day in London going to all the major watch shops, listening to all these clicks – and even sneakily recording the ones we really liked. We had to go to lots of shops, because if we’d tried to do it in just one they’d have sussed us – and thrown us out! Mike: By the end of that day it seemed clear that Rolex has the best bezel – not too stiff, not too soft, but solid and just right – so that became the benchmark. Jorg Jr.: The truth is, we didn’t need to go to all this trouble at all – nobody ever criticised the bezel on Trident 2 – but if we were really going to produce the best Trident we could, every aspect had to be improved. The quick-release bracelet Mike: For Trident 3, we’ve introduced our first-ever quick release stainless steel bracelet, which is a really big deal – we’re one of the first brands in the world to do so. Of course, one of the great benefits we have is access to the experience and expertise of Jorg Bader Sr., who spent a large part of his 40 years in the watch industry specialising in bracelets. He and Adrian came up with a new quick-change design which is going be a quiet revolution, I think. Adrian: Swapping between straps or bracelets is a fiddly task that no-one likes, especially as you risk scratching your watch case in. At the same time, there’s no better way to refresh your watch, or tailor it to different circumstances. In coming up with an elegant design solution to make this happen, Jorg Sr. was our secret weapon. He’s a walking, talking watch industry dictionary who seems to know everyone. Jorg Bader Sr. (head of Christopher Ward’s Swiss atelier): We already offer quick-release on our leather straps, but bracelets demand a different yet compatible system, using two spring bars rather than one. It makes swapping between a strap and a bracelet easy, though – you can do it in 20 seconds. Adrian: Quick release bracelets are only available from a handful of really highend watchmakers, and they’ve each come up with slightly different designs. Our solution is comparable, but not so expensive that it eats too much into our value for money proposition. The new hybrid strap Helen: Our latest rubber strap is also unusual, in that it’s our first hybrid, combining a high-strength waterproof textile called Cordura on the upper surface with rubber underneath. The reason? Added comfort, flexibility and a much better look. It comes in all the key colours like black and blue, and there’s a blue-and-orange version that supports our flagship Trident 3, the C60 Trident Elite 1000, a real professional’s watch in titanium. It’s limited to 300 pieces and can dive to 1,000 metres – it even has an inbuilt helium release value. Adrian: Cordura is the sort of material you find on backpacks and sports clothing, and these dual-material straps will last much longer than any single-material strap ever would. The appeal of Trident 3 Mike: Trident 3 launches in three versions – the entry level Pro, the GMT, and the top-of-the-line Elite 1000, with the Trident Pro costing only £50 more than its equivalent Trident 2. You can still pick one up for under £700, which means the value proposition is better than ever. Helen: Although it’s a very masculine design, Trident has always had a big female audience too. Yes, 42mm is pretty big, but it’s not unusual for women to wear larger watches these days, and as the Pro comes at 38mm and 40mm too, it’s the perfect size for smaller wrists. Adrian: That Trident 3 is a success is vital to Christopher Ward, and over the next few years there will be many further iterations of this design, using different materials, colours, specifications and so on. This being the case, it was vital we got the design right from the start, giving us the perfect flexible platform from which to go in all sorts of directions. Mike: We can’t afford for Trident 3 to date too quickly, so we’ve deliberately kept things restrained – and even a little conservative – so it can naturally evolve over the years. But, at the same time, we’ve been hugely fussy and exacting over the details. Right here, right now, I don’t think it would be possible to make a better Trident than this. View full record
  3. Admin

    Seiko Catalog 2020

    “Always one step ahead of the rest” With the production of Japan’s first wristwatch, the 1913 Laurel, Seiko’s founder, Kintaro Hattori realized one of the most important goals in his dream of making Seiko into a company that would be “Always one step ahead of the rest.” His vision has guided Seiko ever since, through more than a century of innovation and constant commitment to improve the precision, utility and beauty of its timepieces. Today, nearly 140 years after the creation of the company, Seiko proudly offers a collection of timepieces that are as true as ever to the founder’s vision but that also enrich the lives and lift the spirits of those who wear them. For Seiko, time is mankind’s greatest and most precious asset. It is to be savored and enjoyed so, in the warmth of their design and in the relevance of their functionality, Seiko’s timepieces offer a new level of both practical and emotional satisfaction. The new dimension to Seiko is inspired by the idea that Seiko is, and always will be, “Moving Ahead. Touching Hearts.” Welcome to the world of Seiko.
  4. Aviation themed watches are often exciting looking – bold and masculine, with an appealing ‘tool watch’ feel – and Christopher Ward’s C8 series bring a unique aesthetic to the breed. Now two new members of the family are taking the series to new heights, as Matt Bielby finds out... Pilot watches are one of the main pillars of the industry, and plenty of famous Swiss companies have built their names and reputations around them. But while the likes of IWC mostly look to the B-Uhr observation watch for their inspiration – those oversized beasts inspired by Hitler’s mid-’30s desire to rebuild the German air force, with four German makers, plus the Swiss IWC, eventually supplying them to the Luftwaffe – Christopher Ward likes to do things a little differently. No surprise there, right? Doing things differently, in this instance, means looking to a different inspiration. The B-Uhr look tended towards the aggressively simple: black dials, white Arabic numerals, luminous sword hands, and an upwards orientation triangle or arrow at the 12 o’clock position. These were big watches – not big in the normal way we think of it, but 55mm big. Virtually pocket watches for the wrist. IWC’s current Big Pilot watch is essentially a variation on the theme, and companies like Stowa (one of the original German manufacturers of B-Uhr) make even more literal modern incarnations. British pilot watches of World War II, even when made by the neutral Swiss – IWC famously supplied both the RAF and Luftwaffe – used a similar design language, but were mostly smaller, simpler things. Christopher Ward has made B-Uhr influenced watches in the past, but in recent years has instead been looking to some very British icons for their aviation-themed range. The dials now reference the Smith’s Mark II clocks found in Spitfire cockpits; and the backs nod to the giant turbines in the three wind tunnels at Farnborough Airport in Hampshire, for a long time home to the Royal Aircraft Establishment, Britain’s early skunk works. This is where they tested everything from the Hawker Hurricane to Concorde. “When we first came across those wind tunnels, we couldn’t believe that nobody had ever referenced their look in watch design,” says Mike France, co- founder of Christopher Ward. Now, with two new 44mm models – the first pilot watches from the company to sport Christopher Ward’s new logo and branding, that logo appearing in the fast-becoming-familiar 9 o’clock position on one and, interestingly, centred more traditionally at 12 o’clock on the other – the proudly disruptive brand is looking set to make waves once again. First up, the C8 UTC Worldtimer, a particularly handsome beast in either regular brushed stainless steel or sandblasted steel black DLC (Diamond- like Carbon, giving a tough, black-coated finish). Powering it is the familiar 21-jewel ETA 2893 automatic movement, this one running hours, minutes, seconds, date and a UTC/GMT function, and with a 42 hour power reserve. Two C8 SH21 crowns – one at about two o’clock, the other at about four – control regular functions and the cities ring, which moves through a sequence of 24 positions. The most appealing thing about it, though, is the way it looks: big numbers at 12 and 6, batons for the rest, a date wheel at 3 o’clock balancing nicely with the new logo’s regular position opposite it on the dial, and the 24-hour-clock number on a ring around the edge of the main watch face, depicted with white or old radium numbers on black for the top half of the dial (the nighttime hours, from six at night until six in the morning), and black on white or old radium for the daylight hours. Beyond all this comes that rotating ring at a low angle, with London at the top, Auckland at the bottom, and major cities in each of the world’s time zones marching around the dial on two stacked levels: Zurich, Cairo, Moscow, Dubai... “Last year’s C8 P7350 Chronometer limited edition model, released to celebrate the anniversary of the Battle of Britain, contained a genuine piece of Spitfire in the case, and was very closely based on the Smith’s clocks,” says Mike. “These new pilot watch designs retain that look, but in more stylised form.” The very appealing package is completed by Tibor vintage leather straps in either black, a mid-tan or a darker brown; cases in regular stainless steel or the military black DLC; and the dial print in either straight white radium (with the steel case) or the slightly creamier old radium (with the black one). And then there’s the UTC’s sister watch, the C8 Power Reserve Chronometer, this one containing SH21 – Christopher Ward’s remarkable in-house movement, designed by Johannes Jahnke – in hand-wound small second and power reserve form. Despite two subdials (at six and nine), and a date window at three, it’s a slightly more restrained presence, though one thing strikes you immediately. That’s right: the new, crisp and modern Christopher Ward logo has relocated to the classic 12 o’clock position – it has little choice, considering the dial layout – and is now centred (with ‘Ward’ underneath the central R to P of the longer ‘Christopher’), rather than aligned left. Opinions on this? Well, some will immediately like it better – it’s a much more familiar arrangement, after all – though I, personally and on balance, find the default nine o’clock position slightly more dynamic, individual and exciting. Whatever side of the debate you fall on, it certainly shows the useful flexibility of the new arrangement. Another black sandblasted watch with a two-layer dial and narrow old radium troughs serving as ‘batons’ – slimmer than on the UTC, and with numerals only at twelve this time – its design is very much in the pilot watch tradition. And though there’s no function here quite as clever as UTC/GMT, two things that this version of SH21 offers – besides the joy of knowing your watch contains one of JJ’s movements – are very pleasing and useful. One, of course, is that it’s a certified chronometer – the small text on the dial tells you so, and this immediately puts it in the top 3% of Swiss mechanical watches for accuracy – and the other is SH21’s remarkable five- day power reserve function, meaning that once you wind your watch (manually, remember) it will keep running for 120 hours. “It doesn’t take a huge number to turns to get it fully wound,” Mike says, “and, in some ways, having a lengthy Power Reserve function makes even more sense with a hand-wound watch than it does an automatic. Useful? I’d say so – as someone who flips between three or four regular daily watches, the thought that a mechanical watch almost certainly won’t have run down (and so need resetting, including the date wheel) by the time I get around to wearing it again is pleasing indeed. The subdial at nine reminds you how much power the watch has left, while the lower dial handles the seconds. Remember how we talked about how Christopher Ward aviation watches use a unique design language? Well, part of it has always been the distinctive case backs that the C8 range uses, featuring what looks like a six-spoke car alloy with its surrounding tyre, but which actually references those huge Farnborough fans. The C8 UTC has this case back, but the C8 Power Reserve Chronometer does something different again, giving the watch a huge sapphire display window at the rear to show off SH21 and a redesigned bridge – here in sandblasted black PVD – and revealing the large twin barrels that give this version of SH21 its impressive 5-day running time. Because of the new bridge, and the lack of an automatic movement’s rotor to get in the way, the two barrels are hugely striking and dominant, and have here been engraved to again reference the Farnborough turbines. The end result is a watch where you want to stare at the back almost as much as you do the front. With these two new watches, Christopher Ward doesn’t just seem to have upped its aviation game, but is making its new design language really sing. Matt Bielby is editor of Loupe Magazine The C8 UTC Worldtimer and C8 Power Reserve Chronometer are on pre-order for October release; £899 / $1,200 (steel) and £950 / $1,270 (black DLC) for the UTC, and £1,550 / $2,070 for the PR. Article source: Loupe Magazine issue 2 - 2016
  5. Sporting a PVD gold case and black detailing, the C65 Black Gold builds upon the foundation of our C65 Trident Diver with an additional warmth that complements its slim vintage aesthetic. Powered by a Swiss-made mechanical movement, this 200-piece limited edition channels the glamour and cool of the '60s - although its modern-day build quality proves today's era has some benefits too! Description The prominence of our C65 Trident Collection can be traced back to one watch: the C65 Trident Diver. The new C65 Black Gold is a celebration of the Diver; yet the introduction of its black and gold colour scheme emphasises its vintage cues even more impressively. The Black Gold's dial doesn't stray from what many enjoyed about the original: large Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 o'clock, along with rectangular indexes and hands, have been filled with Old Radium Super-LumiNova. Printed white second markers, combined with minute markers and numerals on its unidirectional aluminium bezel, add to the C65's tool watch feel. Yet the real success of the Black Gold lies in the combination of its black dial and bezel with a PVD gold case. The hue that adorns the C65's arcing 'light-catcher' case design accentuates the Old Radium detailing across its dial, while its famous deep-stamped Trident backplate is finished in black diamond-like carbon (DLC). Powered by a Swiss-made Sellita SW210 - a hand-wound movement similar to those used throughout the 1960s - this 200-piece limited edition wears its bold vintage influences proudly. Movement Behind the Black Gold's trident-stamped caseback - there were no display backs during the 60s - a Swiss-made Sellita SW210 hand-wound movement keeps excellent time. A slim movement at only 3.35mm high, the Sellita 210-1 shares many of the same components as its self-winding cousin, the Sellita SW200-1. A classic frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (that's eight ticks a second) delivers 42 hours of continuous, accurate timekeeping once fully wound. Significantly, it has been also decorated with Christopher Ward's distinctive Colimacone pattern. It's a feature that few will ever see, but remains indicative of the commitment to detail throughout this special watch. Technical Diameter: 41mm Height: 11.55mm Weight: 65g Calibre: Sellita SW210 Vibrations: 28,800 per hour (4 Hz) Timing tolerance: +15/-15 seconds per day Case: 316L Stainless Steel Water resistance: 15 ATM (150 metres) Dial colour: Black Lume: Old Radium Super-LumiNova Lug to Lug: 47.1mm Strap width: 22mm Strap colour: Black Features Swiss made 19 jewel hand-wound movement 42 hour power reserve Central hacking seconds Anti-shock system Christopher Ward 'Colimacone' finish on movement Gold-toned PVD-coated marine-grade stainless steel case Black DLC screw-down backplate with High Definition "Trident" motif Push-in crown stamped with twin flag motif Unidirectional aluminium bezel "Glass box" sapphire crystal Matte finish dial Twin flags debossed at 12 o'clock Old Radium Super-LumiNova indexes and hands Signature Trident counter-balance on seconds hand Unique engraved serial number Cordura and rubber hybrid waterproof strap with DLC (diamond-like carbon)-coated Christopher Ward buckle and quick-release pins for easy changing Eco-friendly luxury presentation case and owner's handbook
  6. Inspired by Scottish Opera's 'Anthropocene', this 300-piece limited edition integrates the production's icy wilderness setting into its very design. Powered by a Sellita SW330 movement whose vivid orange GMT hand is read against a blackened 24-hour bezel, the C65 Anthropocene's textured white dial is a uniquely striking reminder of the Opera's eco-conscious message. Description Marking the first time Christopher Ward has created a concept-based watch, this new C65's stark appearance was unleashed by Scottish Opera's 'Anthropocene' - a production that sees a stranded scientific crew discover a creature in the Arctic ice having been looking for ancient samples uncovered by climate change. Using the C65 Trident GMT as its starting point, the Anthropocene retains the range's '60s dive watch looks but strips away the near entirety of its remaining colour palette; its dial is finished in a matte white, with an inclined ring around its exterior conveying a sense of depth. Upholding the snowed-out aesthetic, white Super-LumiNova is used throughout. An apt addition for the Anthropocene has been made to its hands: a new black PVD finish matches its anodised aluminium 24-hour bezel insert, whilst offering a striking contrast against its dial. Indeed, an orange GMT hand offers the only moment of colour - a visual representation of the minute human presence at the heart of the opera's vast setting. Stark in appearance - much like its operatic inspiration's message - the C65 Anthropocene is a 300-piece limited edition that'll add a different kind of cool to your collection. Movement At its heart, the C65 Anthropocene is a watch born for travel thanks to its GMT-ready Sellita SW330 movement (although we hope its wearer doesn't end up in a similar predicament to the stricken characters in the opera!). This Swiss-made automatic calibre features a fourth GMT hand which is read against the C65's 24-hour bezel, allowing its wearer to simultaneously track the time in another time zone. An anti-shock system ensures peace of mind for the more adventurous of owners, ensuring the Anthropocene can sustain a number of knocks and bumps - all whilst maintaining a smooth eight ticks per second. Technical Diameter: 41mm Height:12.05mm Weight: 71g Calibre: Sellita SW330 Case: 316L stainless steel Vibrations: 28,800 per hour (4 Hz) Timing tolerance: +20/-20 seconds per day Water resistance: 15 ATM (150 metres) Dial colour: White Lume: TC-1 SuperLumiNova Lug to Lug: 47.1mm Strap width: 22mm Strap colour: Black/Orange Features Limited Edition of 300 pieces Swiss made 25 jewel self-winding mechanical movement 42 hour power reserve Dual-time GMT function Date calendar Central hacking seconds Anti-shock system Brushed and polished marine-grade stainless steel case Push-in crown stamped with twin flag motif Unidirectional stainless steel 24hr bezel with black anodised aluminium insert "Glass box" sapphire crystal Matte finish dial Twin flags debossed at 12 o'clock Black PVD-coated hands with orange GMT hand Signature Trident counter-balance on seconds hand White SuperLumiNova indexes and hands High Definition "Trident" motif screw-down backplate Unique engraved serial number Cordura and rubber hybrid waterproof strap with Christopher Ward buckle and quick-release pins for easy changing Eco-friendly luxury presentation case and owner's handbook
  7. 135-piece Limited Edition Bold and beautiful, the C9 AM GT's black, white and red-splashed dial vibrantly evokes the thrill of the Zagato, one of the most iconic sports cars ever created. Like any prestigious automobile, this 135-piece limited edition will enthrall all whose eyes glimpse its dashboard-influenced dial and power reserve indicator - the only difference here being that the C9 AM GT won't make your heart race when you see its price! Description It's unlikely many will gain the opportunity to sit inside one of the most exclusive sports cars of all time, but with a dial reminiscent of the dashboard detailing inside the world-famous Zagato, the new C9 AM GT may just be the next best thing. The appearance of this 135-piece limited edition may well seem familiar to some older CW aficionados. For those who missed out on 2016's C9 DB4 '1 VEV', a 19-piece limited edition that incorporated metal of historical provenance into its backplate, the C9 AM GT features many of the same design cues; yet without a segment of a Zagato body panel inside, you can enjoy the same rev counter-inspired power reserve indicator, speedometer-influenced numerals and inclined outer dial ring at just a fraction of the original's price. And that's not all: marking a final goodbye to our long-standing C9 case, this C9 AM GT is a bold cohesion of modern engineering and vintage style. Much like the car that inspired it, we expect the C9 AM GT to fly off the starting grid! Movement From ETA's Valgranges Series (the 'Valgranges' indicates its relationship to the Valjoux 7750, also manufactured in Gretchen = 'granges'), the AO7 is a self-winding calibre with unidirectional winding and central-hacking seconds. It's also got a power reserve of 46 hours which is indicated on the dial, and comes courtesy of some clever decoupling that releases tension from the mainspring. Technical Diameter: 43mm Height: 15.1mm Weight: 95g Calibre: ETA Valgranges A07.161 Case: 316L stainless steel Water resistance: 3 ATM (30 metres) Vibrations: 28,800 per hour (4 Hz) Timing tolerance: -15/+15 seconds per day Dial colour: Black matte Lume: Super-LumiNova Grade T-C1 Strap width: 22mm Lug to Lug: 51.5mm Features Limited edition of 135 pieces Swiss made Self-winding 24 jewel movement 46 hour power reserve with indicator at 6 o'clock Cotes De Geneve finish on rotor Surgical-grade stainless steel case Museum-grade anti-reflective sapphire crystal Push-in crown stamped with twin flag motif Speedometer-inspired dial with Super-LumiNova markings Black matte finish dial with inclining outer ring Brushed, polished and curved steel hands Super-LumiNova Grade T-C1 hands, indexes and numerals Exhibition backplate with unique engraved serial number Piccari leather strap with marine-grade stainless steel dress clasp Luxury presentation case and owner's handbook
  8. Since its release, the C65 Trident Collection has earned acclaim for its lithe '60s dive watch stylings. This new addition combines those with the appeal of bronze, a material with maritime connotations; not only will its case develop its own unique patina over time, but its bronze dial has been delicately hand-scratched to possess its own distinctive character. And while vintage in appearance, the chronometer-certified movement inside this 500-piece limited edition represents the best of modern-day Swiss engineering. Description In the 500-piece limited edition, 'Ombré' finds its way into the C65 Trident Collection for the first time. But what exactly does 'Ombré' mean? While some find the term to be more synonymous with other industries - namely, hairdressing, but of course you knew that already - its literal translation from French means 'shaded'. The C65 Trident Bronze Ombré COSC Limited Edition's dial expertly demonstrates this: made from bronze, its colour is brass-like in its centre, before transitioning into a black varnish around the edge. The most intriguing aspect, however, is a number of delicate scratchings that adorn its surface; applied by hand, each dial throughout this 500-piece limited edition is completely unique. Elsewhere, a black aluminium bezel insert combines pleasingly with the edge of the dial, while the C65 Collection's signature case design is here present in bronze form. Measuring in at a well-sized 41mm, the C5191 (CuSn6) bronze alloy used in its construction will begin to develop to its own patina upon contact with the elements, meaning that every owner will possess a watch distinctive from each of the other 499 models made. Fittingly for a watch reflective of '60s dive watch design, the C65 is water-resistant to 150m, with a hint of the modern represented through CW's signature trident located on its seconds hand counterbalance and deep-stamped into its stainless steel backplate. Movement The C65 Trident Collection may devote itself to dive watch design 50 years ago, but the chronometer-certified Sellita SW200 calibre running inside the C65 Trident Bronze Ombré COSC Limited Edition represents the finest of engineering today. A Swiss-made automatic movement with date wheel, every SW200 movement that features inside the C65 has passed through the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres; with a certified timing tolerance of just -4/+6 seconds per day in a variety of temperatures and positions, this limited edition sits within the top 6% of all Swiss-made watches for accuracy. With a 4Hz frequency equating to a smooth eight ticks per second alongside a 38-hour power reserve, an in-built shock system will also ensure accuracy of timekeeping despite any sudden jolts or activity. As a watch in its element throughout those snorkelling or dive trips, the Sellita SW200 is the perfect choice for the C65 Trident Bronze Ombré COSC Limited Edition. Technical Diameter: 41mm Height: 11.55mm Weight: 68g Calibre: Sellita SW200 COSC Case: Bronze C5191 (CuSn6) Backplate: 316L stainless steel Water resistance: 15 ATM (150 metres) Vibrations: 28,800 per hour (4 Hz) Timing tolerance: -4/+6 seconds per day Dial Colour: Ombré Lume: TC-1 Super-LumiNova Strap width: 22mm Strap colour: Black Lug to Lug: 47.1mm Features Limited edition of 500 pieces Swiss made 26 jewel self-winding chronometer-certified movement 38 hour power reserve Date calendar Central hacking seconds Anti-shock system Raw bronze C5191 (CuSn6) case with screw-down deep-stamped 3D backplate Embossed screw-down crown Unidirectional raw bronze C5191 (CuSn6) bezel with anodised aluminium insert "Glass box" sapphire crystal Ombré finish dial with black varnish exterior Super-LumiNova®-coated and gold-plated indexes and hands Signature Trident counter-balance on second hand Unique engraved serial number Cordura® and rubber hybrid waterproof strap with Christopher Ward buckle and quick-release pins for easy changing Eco-friendly luxury presentation case and owner's handbook
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